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Beastmaking: A fingers-first approach to becoming a better climber

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If you're tired of endlessly browsing the internet for information on various hangboard training protocols, this chapter is what you need. First, Ned briefly describes what the three endurance systems are and which fuel sources are utilized by the human body for different types of climbing activities. There are insights from some of the worlds top climbers, including Alex Honnold, Shauna Coxsey, Adam Ondra, Alex Puccio and Tomoa Narasaki. Feehally does touch on some of those aspects, briefly, but not as much as some of the nerdier training enthusiasts (me) might want.

The most useful thing I got from it was about having a back up plan - if your body doesn't feel right one day, scrap the power and endurance session and focus your session on something else instead, it sounds really simple but it's completely shifted my mindset. This book does not provide details on the nitty gritty science underpinning the methods, mental aspects of training, or climbing technique. Ho apprezzato molto il fatto che l'autore non sponsorizzi il Bestmaker, che lui produce, ma propone esercizi da poter eseguire su qualsiasi pannello o trave.

I think all the training literature that’s around is geared towards the people that are already really psyched on training,” said Feehally. He has published more than a dozen military action-adventure novels, including the six-book series Force Recon.

Additionally, criticism of the book has described the included information as common knowledge, but this seems unfair. What is finger strength, where does it come from, and what are the advantages of having strong fingers? So, for example, doing Endurance Repeaters a few kg above or below your CF will likely produce comparable results. He makes astute points such as: not everyone will climb V13 or harder and there are physical and mental limitations the prevent people from doing so and you are not a professional climber.

Organized and structurally broken down for ease of reading, Beastmaking contains a wealth of information based around the premise that every climber is different and individual anatomies will yield varying strengths and weaknesses. From finger strength and endurance training through injury prevention to skin conditioning and tactics, Ned accurately lays out the generally accepted state-of-the-art climbing training knowledge. J. Banaszczyk, StrengthClimbing – Endurance Repeaters – Forearm Aerobic Endurance Hangboard Routine, May 2, 2019. The advice is a mixture of received wisdom and Ned’s personal suggestions which makes for a good combination; where his approach differs from the norm he always says, and crucially, says why.

The 103 third parties who use cookies on this service do so for their purposes of displaying and measuring personalized ads, generating audience insights, and developing and improving products. In the remaining sections, Ned also clearly explains when training one-armed is helpful and why sometimes it's not such a great idea. From the foreward, Feehally admits that he will leave the citations out of this book and recommends your following up with additional reading if interested.Indeed there still is for many people and clearly, Ned Feehally has realised this issue by writing his new book Beastmaking: a fingers-first approach to becoming a better climber. Come scritto in altre recensioni, gli esercizi spiegati sono pochi ed essenziali, ma alla fine quelli so. However, climbing science is not only catching up with what climbers have known for decades, but it's rapidly overtaking common training knowledge. There’s nothing he likes more than trying out different protocols and applying the newly acquired skills on the wall. Beastmaking is written by Ned Feehally one of the world’s top climbers and a co-founder of the Beastmaker fingerboard.

I believe I read this book back in the 80's and was pleased to find it again in a little free library.As would be expected from a dedicated boulderer and co-founder of 'Beastmaker' the authors focus is as the sub-title says 'a fingers-first approach to becoming a better climber' the book however offers much more than that with chapters on tactics, flexibility and core amongst other things. It gives very concise yet detailed and precise descriptions of the most essential and effective hangboard protocols for building strength and endurance.

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